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 | 17ACRES
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 15 Lake Stevens, WA. 
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2003-02-02 48532
I am in negotiations with the JD dealer for a new 4510. When I have mentioned that I would like to have the TOP AND TILT KIT installed, they give me a funny look and ask "what would you want with that". I get the feeling that they don't have much experience with it. But quess what! I don't either. It is in their option list and it looks to me like it would be handy to tilt and rotate a rear implement from the tractor seat. I will have about 1700 ft of gravel road to maintain and will have a lot of landscaping to do as I develop my property. Does anyone have any experience with this option? Do you like it? Would you purchase it again? Comments?
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2003-02-02 48533
It's also called tip and tilt or TnT.
I can see the dealer's comment if they're mostly ag oriented. In most operations the top-link and side-level are set when starting and then never touched again. Some landscaping operations are very different and frequent adjustments are required and adjustments on the fly are helpful.
I have the top portion and it is almost indispensable for box scraper use. I control action of the scraper almost entirely with the hydraulic top-link and seldom touch the 3ph. The top enables me to change from cut to drag to spread on the fly. I can't imagine having to stop and make manual adjustments each time I have a full box and want to drag it somewhere and then again to spread it.
I have thought about getting a tilt as well but I have a crank 3ph leveler so changing the tilt isn't too bad. I do use the leveler when I'm cutting a new side-grades such as road crowns. After the grades are cut the tractor is on the same angle as the grade so they can be maintained with a level implement. If I had a tilt I'd probably also use it with my 3ph forklift. I sometimes change the tilt so the forks will cleanly run under or release from a pallet that's sitting on rough ground or a flatbed.
To me, the top is indispensable for what I do. The tilt would be handy, but I haven't had to crank the side-leveler enough to motivate me into buying one. For a price comparison, I think TISCO is an after-market company that sells top and TnT kits. I'm not sure how the quality compares to a dealer kit.
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| hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002 Posts: 3583 iowa
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2003-02-02 48537
17 Acres, I haven't saw a top and tilt on a tractor, but do know what they are. I've got a Land Pride 45 Series rear blade that has a tilt cylinder for the blade plus a swing cylinder for the hitch frame. These two adjustments turn an ordinary blade into an awsome machine. The 45 Series might be too heavy for your 4610, but I'm sure they make like blades in smaller sizes I don't remember the cost difference between mine and a conventional blade, nor the cost of a top and tilt, but I do know what a great feature it could be for a blade, box scraper, etc.. Hope this info helps. ....
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| liledoun
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 2 North Carolina
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2003-02-02 48543
The Dealer supplied top and tilt will be a secondary source package that Deere sells for around $700. That does NOT include the hydraulics that will be required. A third and fourth control valve and hosed will have to be ordered. I know on my 4300 the whole kit was quoted at over $1200.
I did some checking around and found things availabel for me to make my own for much less. I got a top link complete from Greene Manufacturing (www.green-mfg.com). Their link is a Cat II but with a couple bushings and some hoses from Tractor Supply and I was in business. I already had the third control valve installed. Total cost for me was considerably less than $150
The tilt cylinder was a little harder. The cylinder I got was one from the Princedirect.com site. Their surplus listing had a 2X4 tie rod listed for $35 with missing pins, etc. I made a pivot end for the top, welded a bracket at the proper angle on a 1" nut and screwed it on the threaded end of the cylinder rod. It works great and with hoses I only have about $50 in it.
I have only one hydraulic outlet on the back of the tractor so I only use one at a time. I may put a diverter valve on the outlet or add a forth and fifth control valve via the power beyond connection.
I would recommend that you get the tractor with as much of the hydraulics as you can and do some research on the cylinder sources.
Good Luck
JRF
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